Samarkand, in the Zerafshan valley of southeastern Uzbekistan, is one of the oldest living cities of Central Asia; in more than 2,700 years it saw the army of Alexander, the Mongol destruction and its rise as Timur's imperial capital. The buildings raised by Timur and his grandson Ulugh Beg in the 14th and 15th centuries are the core of the city today: turquoise tiled domes, giant portals and the observatory of a ruler who studied the stars. It has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 2001. Uzbek close to Turkish, visa free entry on a Turkish passport and a four hour direct flight from Istanbul make it the most accessible historic city of Central Asia.
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See flights to Samarkand →When to visit Samarkand
April to May and September to October are the easiest periods, with daytime temperatures of 22C to 28C, clear skies and green gardens. From June to August daytime highs pass 35C and the open squares are hard at midday, so visit early morning and evening. November to March is cool and dry; January nights drop below freezing but days of 5C to 10C bring uncrowded sightseeing.
Things to do in Samarkand
The Registan
Three madrasas frame the square at the heart of the city: the Ulugh Beg Madrasa completed in 1420, the Sher-Dor of 1636 with tigers chasing deer on its portal, and the Tilya-Kori finished in 1660 with a gilded inner dome. All three facades are covered in tile mosaic, and the square is worth a second visit under the evening lights. The madrasa cells are craft shops today.
Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Built by Timur between 1399 and 1404 on his return from the Indian campaign, the mosque was one of the largest of its age; its 41 metre dome and 35 metre portal collapsed over time and were raised again at the end of the 20th century. The marble lectern in the courtyard was made for giant Quran pages. Siyob Bazaar is right beside it, the place to buy Samarkand's stamped bread and dried fruit.
Shah-i-Zinda
Along a narrow lane on the slope of the Afrasiyab hill stand more than twenty mausoleums from the 11th to the 15th century; the name comes from the belief that Kusam ibn Abbas, cousin of the Prophet, is buried here. The tombs of Timur's sisters and relatives are the finest examples of Samarkand tilework. Morning light shows the turquoise and deep blue facades best.
Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum
Begun in 1404 for Timur's grandson, the mausoleum became the dynastic tomb when Timur died on campaign in 1405; Timur, his sons and Ulugh Beg lie here. The ribbed turquoise dome is 34 metres high and the interior is covered in gilt and deep blue tile. Timur's black jade tombstone lies at the centre, and the building was the model for the Mughal tombs of India.
Ulugh Beg Observatory
Of the observatory built in the 1420s by Timur's astronomer grandson Ulugh Beg, what remains is part of the giant underground sextant arc uncovered by excavation in 1908. The marble arc of 40 metre radius measured star positions with a precision remarkable for its age; Ulugh Beg's catalogue of 1,018 stars was used in Europe until the 17th century. The small museum beside it explains the instruments.
Siyob Bazaar
The covered market beside the Bibi-Khanym Mosque is the main food market of the city and busiest in the morning. Samarkand's heavy stamped bread, baked in tandoor ovens, is bought warm here, and stalls of dried apricots, walnuts, halva and spices run in rows. In the streets behind the market the plov cauldrons are set up at noon, the best place to try the national dish.
Flights from Turkey to Samarkand
Direct flights to Samarkand from Turkey leave from Istanbul Airport, operated year round by Turkish Airlines on several days a week, with Uzbekistan Airways also on the route, and take about 4 hours 20 minutes. Most departures are at night with early morning arrival. Samarkand International Airport is about 6 kilometres northeast of the centre and 20 minutes by taxi. Alternatively fly to Tashkent and take the high speed Afrosiyob train to Samarkand in two hours ten minutes; the same train continues to Bukhara.
Samarkand FAQ
How many days do you need in Samarkand?
The Registan, Bibi-Khanym, Shah-i-Zinda and Gur-e-Amir take two days. A third goes to the observatory, the Afrasiyab museum and the Konigil paper workshop. An Uzbekistan tour combined with Bukhara and Khiva runs from a week to ten days.
How far is the airport from the city centre?
Samarkand Airport is about 6 kilometres from the centre. A taxi takes 20 minutes; agree the fare at the airport exit or call one through the Yandex Go app. There is a city bus too, but it is not practical with luggage.
Do you need a visa for Uzbekistan?
Uzbekistan is visa free on a Turkish passport for stays of up to thirty days. The passport must be valid for at least three months from the date of entry. Hotels register your stay, and since the registrations can be asked for on departure it is useful to keep the hotel slips.
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