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Africa · Kenya

Mombasa

A Swahili port built on an island: a Portuguese fort, an old town of carved doors, a coral reef and white sand Indian Ocean beaches.

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IATA: MBA Flight time: 7h 20m Time offset: GMT+3
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Mombasa is the largest port on Kenya's Indian Ocean coast and the country's second city; its centre stands on an island joined to the mainland by bridges and a ferry. For more than a thousand years it has been a Swahili port where Arab, Persian, Indian and African trade met; the Portuguese built a fort in the 16th century, the sultans of Oman ruled in the 19th, and it remains the busiest port in East Africa. The city is in the same time zone as Turkey, so despite the seven hour flight there is no jet lag. Nyali beach to the north and Diani to the south are sheltered by a coral reef, and Tsavo National Park is two hours away.

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When to visit Mombasa

December to March is the hottest and driest period, with daytime temperatures of 31C to 33C and the sea at 28C. July to October is the second good window, cooler at 27C to 29C under the southeast wind, and in the parks the animals gather at water for safari. April and May are the long rains and the least suitable months; short rains come in November. Humidity is high all year.

Season in Mombasa: May-October.

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Things to do in Mombasa

Fort Jesus

Fort Jesus

Built by the Portuguese between 1593 and 1596 to guard the harbour, the fort is made of coral stone on a plan shaped like a human figure and has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2011. Its walls changed hands through Portuguese, Omani and British periods. The museum inside shows finds from a shipwreck and ceramics of the Swahili coast, and the ramparts look over the old harbour.

Mandhry Mosque and the Old Town

Mandhry Mosque and the Old Town

In the narrow streets behind the fort, Swahili, Arab, Indian and Portuguese architecture stand together: carved wooden doors, timber balconies leaning over the lanes and the whitewashed Mandhry Mosque from the 1570s, its minaret shaped like a tower, one of the oldest mosques still in use in East Africa. Wooden dhows tie up at the old harbour quay; spice shops and Swahili coffee stalls are open in the morning, and guided walking tours start from the fort.

Haller Park

Haller Park

The former cement quarry at Bamburi was turned into forest from 1971 by the Swiss agronomist René Haller and is today a nature park with giraffes, hippos, giant tortoises and crocodiles. Feeding the giraffes by hand is the best known moment of the visit. It is 10 kilometres north of the centre and close to the Nyali beaches; the walking trails take two hours.

Diani Beach

Diani Beach

South of the island, reached by the Likoni ferry and a 35 kilometre road, Diani is Kenya's best known beach: 17 kilometres of white sand, a line of palms and shallow turquoise water sheltered by the reef. It is the centre for kitesurfing, snorkelling and kayak trips, with day trips by dhow to the Kisite marine park. Most of the hotels are on this coast and many visitors see Mombasa from here.

Jumba la Mtwana Ruins

Jumba la Mtwana Ruins

Fifteen kilometres north of the centre, at the mouth of Mtwapa creek, the coral stone remains of a Swahili town founded in the 14th century and abandoned in the 15th stand among baobab trees: four mosques, a cemetery and stone houses. The name means the large house of the slave in Swahili, but the reason for the abandonment is unknown. The mosque on the shore faces straight out to sea, and the visit takes an hour.

The Mombasa Tusks

The Mombasa Tusks

The four aluminium tusks crossing over Moi Avenue were raised in 1952 for the visit of Princess Elizabeth and became the best known symbol of the city; seen from above they draw an M for Mombasa. The arches stand at the head of the avenue linking the island's centre to the port, with a craft market and Uhuru Gardens around them. Early morning is quieter for photographs.

Flights from Turkey to Mombasa

Direct flights to Mombasa from Turkey leave from Istanbul Airport, operated year round by Turkish Airlines on three days a week, and take about 7 hours 20 minutes. Departures are at night with morning arrival, and there is no time difference between Kenya and Turkey. As flying days are limited the return date is planned around them; there is also a daily connection via Nairobi. Moi International Airport is on the mainland about 10 kilometres west of the centre and 30 minutes by taxi.

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Mombasa FAQ

How many days do you need in Mombasa?

Fort Jesus, the Old Town and Haller Park take two days. Add three or four days of beach at Diani or Nyali. A two day safari in Tsavo or a boat trip to Wasini island stretches the trip to a week.

How far is the airport from the city centre?

Moi International Airport is about 10 kilometres from the centre. A taxi takes 30 to 45 minutes and the fare is agreed beforehand; allow an hour to the Nyali beaches and two hours to Diani including the Likoni ferry. Most hotels offer an airport transfer.

Do you need a visa for Kenya?

Kenya abolished visas and replaced them with an electronic travel authorisation (eTA) for all visitors; on a Turkish passport it is obtained online through the official portal before travel and approved within a few days. A yellow fever certificate is not required for arrivals direct from Turkey. Malaria risk on the coast exists all year, so consult a doctor about prophylaxis before the trip.

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